Memories of Khadga Jatra in Lhasa
Recently BBC Reel published a video titled “The ancient practice of self-isolation” about the Lhasa Newa ritual of quarantine for merchants returning from Lhasa. This particular picture (see above) caught our attention because it featured the 87 years old Jagat Ratna Tuladhar who was on the first episode of Aji’s Podcast to speak about his Lhasa journeys! When we showed him this picture, he was filled with joy and nostalgia, and his memories about this picture started flooding in. Here’s what he remembers:
The photo was taken around 60 years back in Lhasa on the occasion of Khadga Jatra. He has faded memories of the photographer but he remembers other things related to this photo including the red cap and the Tibetan dress he was wearing.
Khadga Jatra (Paaya in Newa langauge) is an ancient ritual conducted during Dashain. At the time in Lhasa they had 10 different wards or groups called “paala”, each with a unique identity. Jagat Ratna’s paala which he was the head of, was called “Chusinsya paala”. The head of the paala was called a “thakali” and he was responsible for conducting the Khadga Jatra ritual.
The Khadga Jatra was usually conducted around Bhakor Gumba but during this year the consulate of the district in Lhasa advised against holding the ritual there due to security reasons. That year’s ritual, captured in the image above, was performed in private premises. This also happened to be the last Khadga Jatra conducted in Lhasa. After this event the idols of gods and goddesses were brought back to Nepal.
Jagat Ratna also remembers that, as a perk of being a ‘thakali’ of his ‘paala’, he had the rare opportunity of meeting the Dalai Lama in the Potala Palace! He vividly remembers how the Dalai Lama put both his hands on his head and gave him blessings.